mécanique·RV

Perte de puissance turbo RV

Une page expliquant les principes du turbo.

Le wastegate. How To Service A Stuck/seized Turbo Wastegate Arm?

Mon post sur safarifriends. Finalement c’était lié probablement aux filtres à essence (attention pour le futur, lire le post et le commentaire de Brett sur la bonne taille pour le primary filter) ET aux PAC brake qui était coincé. Mettre de l’huile pénétrante assez souvent mais le soir pour qu’il fasse effet pendant la nuit (et c’est inflammable ce truc tout de même). Vérifier les résidus du filtre à essence (dans le clear plastic bowl) régulièrement aussi (on peut drainer de petits échantillons pour faire sortir l’eau). Brett propose (puisque mon filtre était pas mal sale) de traiter avec un biocide (Biobor JF) le réservoir (pour les algues potentielles). Prévoir des filtres de remplacement parce que ça se pourrait qu’alors, on doive le changer plus rapidement que prévu!

 

Change procedure:
First, that Hino filter is not the correct  PRIMARY FILTER. At least when I put it into the Wix cross reference look up, the Wix comparable filter is TWO MICRON.  The primary should be between 10 and 30.  Get the correct one! VERY HIGH LIKELIHOOD THAT IT IS CLOGGED.

Best to have a spare clear plastic bowl and gasket for the primary filter.  That way you can assemble the new one prior to starting.  And, if you crack the old plastic bowl, you are not dead in the water.
If using the old bowl, start by loosening it very slightly– so you can unscrew it by hand once the whole filter is removed.  Next remove the filter, assemble the new one and install as quickly as possible.  

Why speed? Because there is no shut off valve on the inlet to the primary fuel filter. If the level of the fuel in the tank is higher than the filter head, fuel will run out the filter head.  A little messy.  BUT, much better than if the level of fuel in the tank is lower.  If that is the case, fuel will drain all the way back to the tank, leaving you with 30′ of AIR.  Clearing that is a whole different ball game.

So, with primary filter element on, remove the secondary fuel filter.  Use the push to prime button on the Racor primary fuel filter head, pumping until fuel, not air starts to come out the secondary fuel filter housing.

Install the secondary filter, but do not tighten it down.  Use the primer button until fuel with no air comes out around the gasket.  Tighten and pump a few more times.

You are done.
Brett

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Here are numbers I have for our 1997 Sahara with same engine:
Primary fuel filter:  NAPA Gold 3231= Wix 33231 OR Racor R60T with Bowl: RK21113-13-11.

Secondary fuel filter: Caterpillar 1R-0751 

Now, if you find algae (black slime), it would suggest that you need to add a kill dose of a BIOCIDE such as Biobor JF. And keep a couple of extra sets of filters in hand, as the biocide will kill the existing algae, but the filters will have to remove them.

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Be aware that PacBrake has a special high temp lube and a good « how to lube » on their website:
http://community.fmca.com/topic/10789-allowing-towables-vote-at-indianapolis-in-july/?page=12#comment-85598
And, absolutely, if the PacBrake is not opening all the way, you will not have full HP and will also run a lot higher EGT (Exhaust Gas Temperatures).  Even if you need to removed it to free it up or worse case replace it, that is a LOT less $$ than ruining the engine or your vacation.
And, I really suggest you replace the primary filter with one with the correct micron rating.  No need to replace the secondary again (that 2 primary will catch everything, leaving the 2 micron secondary clean).
Brett

 

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